Method and construction for form fitting panty hose

ABSTRACT

An improved panty hose method and construction utilizes a pair of seamless, knit, stretch stockings each of which in the upper portion used for forming the panty is knit with a welt portion followed by an upper panty portion of the same stretch diameter and which is followed by a lower panty portion which abruptly increases in stretch diameter at the juncture of the two portions whereby to produce a form-fitting shape.

I v United States Patent 1191 [111 3,763,668 Williams Oct. 9, 1973 [54] METHOD AND CONSTRUCTION FOR 3,651,670 3/1972 Burleson et al 66/177 O M I I PANTY HOSE 2,807,946 10/1957 Virchaux 1 3,128,475 4/1964 Rice et al 66/177 x [75] Inventor: Charlie L.W1ll1ams,W1lkesboro, h Primary Examiner-Ronald Feldbaum [73I Assignee: Ithaca Textiles, lnc.,Wilkesboro, Att0rneyB. B. Olive 22 Filed: 061. 29, 1971 [57] ABSTRACT An improved panty hose method and construction uti- [211 App! 193 lizes a pair of seamless, knit, stretch stockings each of which in the upper portion used for forming the panty [52] US. Cl. 66/178 A, 66/177 is knit with a welt portion followed y an pp P y [51] 1111. c1 D04b 11/00 Portion of the same stretch diameter and which is [58] Field of Search 66/177, 176, 189, lowed y a lower p y Portion which p y 66/ 172, 172 E, 178, 173 creases in stretch diameter at the juncture of the two portions whereby to produce a form-fitting shape. [56] References Cited 10 Claims, 4 Drawing Figures UNITED STATES PATENTS 3,566,624 3/1971 Burleson 66/189 e PRIOR ART "PANTY" PORTION "BOOT" PORTION PATENTEDUCI 9l973 lN-TURN WELT UPPER PANTY SEWING BAND LOWER PANTY CROTCH BAND ll BOOT! PORTION FIG. 4

PRIOR ART "PANTY" PORTION "BOOT' PORTION FIG. 1

I NVEN TOR.

Charlie L. Williams ATTORNEY BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The invention relates to seamless knit garments and particularly to methods and constructions used in making seamless stretch stockings intended to be assembled by pairs as panty hose.

2. Description of the Prior Art Manufacturers of panty hose have long sought for some method and construction which could be followed in the upper panty-forming portion of the stocking blank such that when pairs of stockings are assembled into panty hose the panty portion would cling and conform to the shape of the wearer. Various kinds of shaping of the material by cutting have been attempted on knit panty hose stocking tubes of uniform diameter. Also, it is known to gradually taper the upper portion of the stocking when being knit in an effort to provide a panty portion that properly fits in the end product. Further, it has been known to form the stocking blank entirely of elastic yarns, of stretch nylon or of a nylonspandex yarn in order to achieve a form-fitting panty portion. However, the art has not taught either in method or construction the concept of improving the form fit by knitting the upper portion of the stocking blank which forms the panty as two distinct connected tubes, referred to as upper and lower panty portions, maintaining the diameter of each uniform throughout its length but at the juncture of the upper with the lower abruptly increasing the diameter and then abruptly decreasing the diameter when commencing the upper boot portion of the stocking.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION A method and construction according to the invention is directed to forming the upper portion of a seamless, stretch stocking in such manner that this upper portion when seamed to a similar upper portion of another stocking produces an improved form-fitting panty portion of a panty hose. More particularly, ac-

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENT Prior to describing the present invention reference is made to FIG. 1 and a description of typical prior art practices. The stocking of FIG. 1 is intended to be one which is to be paired with another of similar construction, slit and seamed and formed into a panty hose. According to the conventional prior art practice such a stocking 10 will have a double welt tubular portion 11 of say 144 courses which may be of stretch nylon or of stretch, elastic, nylon-spandex yarn. This is followed by a second tubular portion 12 of the same diameter and which may be 736 courses in a typical case. The mentioned diameter when measured as the stretched diameter as hereafter explained might in a typical case be about 13 inches. While stitch type may vary a plain, jersey stitch is typically used. At the end of this last tubular portion 12 there is then knit a so-called crotch band 13 of 80 courses and which is typically formed of a one by one tuck stitch whose purpose is to provide run protection and a guideline for slitting in the final product. Just at the point of commencing crotch band 13 a typical practice is to loosen the machine stitch length so that there is an abrupt change to a larger diameter which takes place in the process of knitting a very few courses, say two to three courses. That is, the

cording to the invention the upper portion of the stock- DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS FIG. 1 is a side view of a typical prior art stocking used for making panty hose.

FIG. 2 is a side view showing somewhat distorted the relative shape of a stocking knit according to the invention.

FIG. 3 is a perspective schematic view showing how a stocking, according to the invention, comprises a series of inter-knit tubular portions of varying diameter.

FIG. 4 illustrates a torso mounting a panty hose made according to the invention.

crotch band is of a larger diameter which might, for example, be 13% inches, measured as the stretched diameter" and this change in diameter occurs abruptly. The mentioned portions ll, 12, and 13 are those which eventually form the panty and are referred to here as the panty portion of the stocking. Portions 11 and 12 of course form essentially the entire panty portion and it will be noted that portions 11 and I2 constitute, in effect, a single tube of uniform diameter. That is, there is no upper and lower panty portion of different diame ter as with the invention. Since the present invention is directly primarily to the panty portion it may be stated that the upper boot portion 14 and the remaining heel 15, foot 16 and toe l7 portions of the stocking may be identical in both the conventional stocking and that of the invention. In the mentioned pantyportion of the prior art stocking a typical yarn for the welt portion 1 1 is a 40/ 1 all nylon, for the next portion 12 a 40/] all nylon, for the crotch band portion 13 a 40/1 or 18/3 all nylon and for the remainder of the stocking an 18/3 all nylon.

A typical example of a stocking according to the invention is illustrated in FIGS. 2, 3 and 4 and for an average" size includes an in-tum tubular welt portion 20 'of 96 courses, an upper panty portion 21 of 272 courses, a micro band or sewing band 22 of 32 courses, a lower panty portion 23 of 640 courses and a crotch band of courses. Welt portion 20, upper panty portion 21, sewing band 22 and lower panty portion 23 are all made with courses of stretch nylon alternating with courses of stretch elastic nylon. Either a four feed or two feed machine may be used. With a four feed machine No. I feed has l/40-l3-S twist nylon, No. 2 feed has 40-denier, single covered Spandex yarn with a covered yarn of ZO-denier, seven filament nylon, No. 3 feed has l/40-l3-Z twist nylon and No. 4 feed has 40- denier, single covered Spandex yarn with a covered yarn of 20-denier, seven filament nylon. The crotch band portion 24 is knit with all stretch nylon and with alternating courses of Z and S twist. As an example,

each l/40-l3-S twist nylon course alternates with a l/40-l3-Z twist nylon course.

To commence the stocking there is knit the in-turn tubular welt portion of 96 courses formed in a plain jersey stitch of the mentioned nylon and nylon-spandex yarn courses. The stretched diameter is determined by a stretch measuring apparatus sold as The Stretchet by Joseph C. Cobert Associates of Concord, N.C. With this apparatus the stretched diameter is measured approximately half-way of the length of the welt portion 20 and this portion for the example being described is formed with a stretch diameter of 12%. That is, the so-called quality control cams are adjusted for a stitch length to produce this stretch diameter. The same diameter is continued through the next tubular upper panty portion 21 which utilizes the same yarn and stitch construction for 272 courses. At the end of upper panty portion 21 the quality control or stitch control mechanism is arranged so that the stretched diameter is abruptly changed to a larger diameter of 14% inch and which diameter continues through the lower panty portion 23. The transition from the smaller to the larger diameter is effected over a relatively small number of courses which mark the beginning of the next tubular portion 22 which utilizes the same yarn but in a one by one tuck stitch construction. This portion 22 is referred to as a micro-band or sewing band and aids in later sewing by providing a visible mark or band as a guide. Sewing band 22 is very narrow and extends for 32 courses following which the tubular lower panty portion 23 of the same diameter as sewing band 22 and of 640 courses is knit. Next, the stretched diameter abruptly changes to 15 /4 inches and this transition is effected over a relatively small number of courses which mark the beginning ofa tubular portion 24. Portion 24 is referred to as a crotch band and is intended to provide run protection and a guideline for slitting when forming the end panty hose product. A one by one tuck stitch is employed for 80 courses which are formed with stretch nylon with opposite twist in alternating courses as previously mentioned.

At the end of crotch band 24 the stretched diameter again abruptly reduces to a stretched diameter of 15 inches and this transition takes place over relatively few courses to mark the beginning of the upper boot portion 25 of the stocking. Since the invention construction and method are primarily directed to those portions of the stocking which form the panty in the panty hose and contribute to its form and shape it may be said that the boot portion, heel, foot and toe portions of the stocking may follow conventional practices. For example, the boot of both the prior art and the invention may employ 18/3 stretch yarn, a jersey stitch and conventional graduation.

What has been found in practicing the invention is that when the stocking blanks are made with the described abruptly changing diameter tubular portions above the boot portion and pairs of such stocking blanks are assembled into panty hose by conventional slitting and sewing methods such as shown in the Rice U.S. Pat. Reissue No. 25,360, the panty portion provides a form-fitting and clinging action not heretofore achieved. Furthermore, this can be measured and an increase of 5 to percent in the longitudinal and lateral stretch can be noted in the stocking blank stretch when measurements are taken at selected points in the upper panty forming portion of a stocking made according to the invention and compared with similar measurements taken with a stocking of the described conventional construction. The measurements mentioned are all made in the greige and some reductions in the measurements will be noted when made in the finished stocking. For example, it has been found that the mentioned 13% inch diameter processes to 12% inches and the 14% inch diameter processes to 13% inches.

In FIG. 4, there is illustrated a simulated human torso and from this can be seen the relative locations of the various tubular portions 20, 21, 22, 23 and 24 when fabricated into the the end product. Also is shown the crotch band 25. What has been discovered is that by forming the hosiery as just described the end panty hose product tends to cling and shape itself to the human form in a manner not heretofore achieved either by the relatively expensive cutting or by the smooth graduation techniques. Why this is so may not be fully understood but it is known that panty hose made according to the invention with defined upper and lower panty portions each being of uniform diameter welt with an abrupt increase in diameter from the upper to the lower have proven immensely popular with women having a wide variety of shapes and sizes.

The following table illustrates how the courses and stretched diameter (S.D.) are varied according to the invention:

(Welt courses, 96 for all sizes; upper panty courses, 272 for all sizes; sewing band courses, 32 for all sizes; crotch band courses, for all sizes.)

Queen. 5%"

From the foregoing description and table certain characteristics of the method and construction of the invention can be observed in contrast to prior art practices. With the invention, the panty portion of the stocking is knit as two defined tubular positions, and upper and a lower panty portion, both of which are knit with courses of non-elastic stretch yarns alternating with those of elastic stretch yarns. The upper" panty portion can for this purpose be considered as including the welt portion 20 and the lower panty portion can be considered as including the sewing band 22. Each panty portion maintains a uniform diameter throughout its length but the diameter abruptly increases at the juncture of the lower and upper panty portions. Note should be taken that an increase of one inch in the stocking blank stretch diameter actually means an increase of two inches in the panty hose stretch diameter when a pair of the stocking blanks are seamed together. The lower panty portion has a substantially greater, normally more than twice, number of courses than the upper panty portion. It has been recognized that the stretch diameter of the lower panty portion, measured as described may vary between being 3 percent to 20 percent greater in stretch diameter than that of the upper panty portion and with the greater difference being in the short, average and long sizes. In the specific examples shown and in the majority of cases for less than the queen size the abrupt increase in stretch diameter will vary between 8 percent and 10 percent. Note is again made that these measurements are made in the greige, that the stretch is reduced by final processing but doubles in the final panty hose product when two of the stocking blanks are seamed together.

In summary, the invention provides a highly unorthodox method and construction for shaping of the panty portion of the stocking blank which is intended to be fabricated into a panty hose. While primarily directed to nylon and synthetic type yarns the invention has also been applied to a cotton panty hose stocking in which a 2/120 cotton yarn has been alternated with a 40- denier single covered Spandex yarn with a covered yarn of -denier, seven filament nylon in the same two part, upper-lower panty portions, and abrupt diameter increase construction described above and the results have generally been the same. Yarn tensions will vary according to trade practice and on the stretch nonelastic yarn will normally be 1 gram or less and on the elastic stretch yarns will normally be 3 grams or less.

The term stretch elastic has been used, as will be seen from the examples shown, to mean yarns having an elastomeric content and a general ability to stretch and recover within limits. The term stretch nonelastic has been used, by the examples shown, to mean yarns having no elastomeric content but having a general ability to stretch and recover within limits. Of course, stretch and elastic are often used interchangeably in the trade and in a relative sense to mean an ability to stretch and recover within predetermined limits. It is believed therefore that from the specific examples given the meaning of such terms will be readily apparent to those in the trade.

What is claimed is:

l. A seamless stretch stocking adapted to being mated in pairs, slit and sewn to produce a panty hose, the panty portion of said stocking comprising:

a. a first tubular welt-upper panty portion of a predetermined stretched uniform diameter formed of courses of yarn of a predetermined stretch character;

b. as a knitted continuation of said first tubular portion a second uniform diameter tubular lower panty portion of between 3 percent and 20 percent greater stretched diameter in the greige, being formed of a substantially larger number of courses of yarn of a predetermined stretch character and with the transition courses between said first and second portions being relatively small in number to provide a substantially abrupt change in diameter; and

c. boot and foot portions forming a knitted continuation of said second portion to complete said stock- 2. A seamless stretch stocking as claimed in claim 1 wherein said courses of yarn comprise courses of yarn of one predetermined stretch character alternating with courses of yarn of another predetermined stretch character.

3. A seamless stretch stocking as claimed in claim 2 wherein said second lower panty portion includes at the beginning thereof a relatively small number of courses knit of the same yarns as said second lower panty portion and in a sewing identification band construction of the same stretch diameter as that of said second portion.

4. A seamless stretch stocking as claimed in claim 3 including between said second lower panty portion and said boot portion a crotch band portion of a relatively small number of courses knit of yarns of a greater stretch diameter than that of said second and upper boot portions and with the transition courses between said second-portion and said crotch band and between said crotch band and said upper boot portion being relatively small in number to provide a substantially abrupt change in diameter.

5. A seamless stretch stocking as claimed in claim 1 wherein for the usual trade sizes, the number of courses in said first upper welt panty portion is held constant for all said sizes and between 350 and 400 courses, the number of courses in said lower panty portion is varied according to the size and in the range of 500 to 800 courses, the stretched diameter measured in the greige of said upper panty portion is varied according to the size in the approximate range 12% inches to 15% inches and the stretched diameter of said lower panty portion is varied according to size in the approximate range of 14 inches to 16% inches.

6. The method of making the panty forming portion of a seamless stretch stocking suited to being mated in pairs for forming a panty hose comprising the steps:

a. knitting a first tubular welt-upper panty portion of courses of yarn of a predetermined stretched diameter;

b. knitting as a continuation of the first portion a second lower panty portion of yarn of 3 percent to 20 percent greater stretched diameter in the greige than that of said first portion and of a substantially large number of courses and in a manner wherein the transition between diameters of said first and second portions is abrupt; and

c. to complete said stocking, knitting as a continuation of said second portion, boot and foot portions.

7. The method of claim 6 wherein said courses of yarn of said first and second portions comprise courses of yarn of one predetermined stretch character alternating with courses of yarn of another predetermined stretch character.

8. The method of claim 7 including knitting as part of said second portion and of the same stretch diameter a narrow band of courses adapted to provide a sewing guide.

9. The method of claim 7 including knitting as part of said second portion and of the same stretch diameter a narrow band of courses adapted to provide a sewing guide, and knitting between said lower panty and boot portions a narrow crotch band of courses and defined by an abrupt change in diameter larger than either of said lower panty and boot portions. v

10. The method of claim 6 wherein for all the usual trade sizes the number of courses in said upper panty portion is held constant between 350 and 400 courses, and the number of courses in said lower panty portion is varied according to the trade size within the range of 500 to 800 courses. 

1. A seamless stretch stocking adapted to being mated in pairs, slit and sewn to produce a panty hose, the panty portion of said stocking comprising: a. a first tubular welt-upper panty portion of a predetermined stretched uniform diameter formed of courses of yarn of a predetermined stretch character; b. as a knitted continuation of said first tubular portion a second uniform diameter tubular lower panty portion of between 3 percent and 20 percent greater stretched diameter in the greige, being formed of a substantially larger number of courses of yarn of a predetermined stretch character and with the transition courses between said first and second portions being relatively small in number to provide a substantially abrupt change in diameter; and c. boot and foot portions forming a knitted continuation of said second portion to complete said stocking.
 2. A seamless stretch stocking as claimed in claim 1 wherein said courses of yarn comprise courses of yarn of one predetermined stretch character alternating with courses of yarn of another predetermined stretch character.
 3. A seamless stretch stocking as claimed in claim 2 wherein said second lower panty portion includes at the beginning thereof a relatively small number of courses knit of the same yarns as said second lower panty portion and in a sewing identification band construction of the same stretch diameter as that of said second portion.
 4. A seamless stretch stocking as claimed in claim 3 including between said second lower panty portion and said boot portion a crotch band portion of a relatively small number of courses knit of yarns of a greater stretch diameter than that of said second and upper boot portions and with the transition courses between said second portion and said crotch band and between said crotch band and said upper boot portion being relatively small in number to provide a substantially abrupt change in diameter.
 5. A seamless stretch stocking as claimed in claim 1 wherein for the usual trade sizes, the number of courses in said first upper welt panty portion is held constant for all said sizes and between 350 and 400 courses, the number of courses in said lower panty portion is varied according to the size and in the range of 500 to 800 courses, the stretched diameter measured in the greige of said upper panty portion is varied according to the size in the approximate range 12 3/4 inches to 15 3/4 inches and the stretched diameter of said lower panty portion is varied according to size in the approximate range of 14 inches to 16 1/4 inches.
 6. The method of making the panty forming portion of a seamless stretch stocking suited to being mated in pairs for forming a panty hose comprising the steps: a. knitting a first tubular welt-upper panty portion of courses of yarn of a predetermined stretched diameter; b. knitting as a continuation of the first portion a second lower panty portion of yarn of 3 percent to 20 percent greater stretched diameter in the greige than that of said first portion and of a substantially large number of courses and in a manner wherein the transition between diameters of said first and second portions is abrupt; and c. to complete said stocking, knitting as a continuation of said second portion, boot and foot portions.
 7. The method of claim 6 wherein said courses of yarn of said first and second portions comprise courses of yarn of one predetermined stretch character alternating with courses of yarn of another predetermined stretch character.
 8. The method of claim 7 including knitting as part of said second portion and of the same stRetch diameter a narrow band of courses adapted to provide a sewing guide.
 9. The method of claim 7 including knitting as part of said second portion and of the same stretch diameter a narrow band of courses adapted to provide a sewing guide, and knitting between said lower panty and boot portions a narrow crotch band of courses and defined by an abrupt change in diameter larger than either of said lower panty and boot portions.
 10. The method of claim 6 wherein for all the usual trade sizes the number of courses in said upper panty portion is held constant between 350 and 400 courses, and the number of courses in said lower panty portion is varied according to the trade size within the range of 500 to 800 courses. 